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B E Y O N D  T H E S E  W A L L S

  • Samantha Van De Poll
  • Mar 22
  • 9 min read

B Y S A M A N T H A V A N D E P O LL









I N T R O

Lanzarote, one of the Canary islands off the coast of West Africa, is known for its year-round warm weather and package holidays but what most people don't realise is the its surprisingly stylish. If you look past ehe package holiday label you'll find unparalleled beauty in its diverse volcanic landscape between the dramatic rolling mountains, beautiful beaches, lush palm groves and hidden wild swimming spots.





Lanzarote


The canaries always seems to get a bit of a bad rep. Over the years and when I was younger the term 'Lanzagrotty' always used to get brought about when the island in particular got mentioned. It was only years later when I went there for a short break in the sun with a friend that I realised the island couldn't be further from that name. Other than maybe two touristy resorts the entire island has been beautifully preserved over the years, with stunning volcanic landscapes, instagram worthy beaches and exquisite natural pools to swim in.


Lanzarote has been developed sustainably and in harmony with the surroundings, especially thanks to the wonderful work of Spanish artist César Manrique. Besides leaving his mark on the landscape with his artistic talent, he was also able to preserve the future of the landscapes development with laws against high-rise buildings and uncharacteristic builds that didn't compliment the island.






W H A T T O D O W H I L E V I S I T I N G ?


Teguise old town

Los charcones

Famara beach

Playa papuagayo

Omar Sherif house

The caves

La graciosa

Cesar Manrique house

The cactus garden

Timafaya national park

Abandoned shipwreck

Puerto calero

El golfo

Mirador del Rio



Teguise old town


Teguise is my go to place to stay whenever I'm on the island. Situated in the north east of the island, sits the enchanting old capital of Teguise. With its whitewashed streets, artistic scene and chilled bohemian vibes, Teguise plays host to a variety of small independent businesses as well as a small community of locals.







Its weekly market draws in the crowds but usually the town is a slow paced paradise. Check out the goat gallery with the resident goat, the creperie for a savoury crepe and glass of wine and the deco store for some beautiful interiors and crystals. Teguise was one of the first settlements established in the Canary Islands and is consider one of the oldest towns among the islands. The Capital of Lanzarote until Arrecife took its place in 1847, the town is a must when visiting the island






Los Charcones


Los Charcones is a series of crystal clear rock pools dotted along a 2km stretch southwest of the island. Know among locals as one of the treasures of Lanzarote, it still remains a bit of a hidden gem due to its remote location.






The many natural swimming pools of Los Charcones are filled with pale turquoise coloured deep waters that blend in with the volcanic landscape. Theres also tonnes of marine among the pools so I highly recommend taking some snorkeling. One of the wonderful thing about the pools is that theres so many to choose from that even if its busy you will easily find your own quiet spot to swim in.



Famara beach


Described as one of Lanzarote's jewels, Famara beach is a 3 kilometre long sandy beach with a dramatic coastline and soaring rugged cliffs. The area has become a hotspot for surf culture with it's cool beach scene and local bohemian town. Famara is great location to learn and practice surfing as well as other water sports. In the nearby town of Caleta de Famara you can hire equipment and find instructors to work with.







Playa papagayo


If you are looking for the most beautiful beaches then Papagayo is your answer. Located in the south, Papagayo makes up a collection of five beaches with its most popular and distinct Playa Papagayo. Far from any major resorts the isolated beaches are worth the journey for the crystal clear, still calm waters.



Lagomar


One of Lanzarote’s most spectacular private properties, majestically formed around the same volcanic rocks from which it was built sits the Omar Sherif House also know as Lagomar.





Originally conceived by César Manrique and designed by the artist Jesus Soto, the house is a mystical wonder of natural labyrinths and caves. In the early 1970s actor Omar Sheriff came to Lanzarote to film. During that time he visited LagOmar, fell in love with it and bought it only later to lose it in a card game to Sam Benady. The house today is open to the public for only a few euro entry and well worth a visit to see the truly enchanting property.



The Caves


Cueva de los Verdes located in the municipality of Haría, is a series of underground caves in the northeast of the island. The Green caves (as more commonly know) was named after a family of goat herders who used them for shelter. The caves were also used for sanctuary in the 16th century from marauding pirates. Later redeveloped by designer Jesus Soto, a favourite for preserving much of the islands beauty it was opened to the public in the 1960's. Venturing deep into the Earth, the stunning cave system is open to explore. Often holding concerts as well as other important events the deep pits of its interior create the perfect backdrop.


La graciosa


Known as the eighth island of the Canary Islands, no trip to Lanzarote is complete without a visit to La Gracsiosa. Just a 30 minute boat journey from Lanzarote, La Gracsiosa is the least explore and most untouched of all the islands with no roads, tarmac or contamination. Whitewashed houses line the sleepy fishing village where time seems to have stood still. Theres an abundance of serene beaches, turquoise lagoons and hidden spots to spend your time. The only way to get around the island is by foot or bicycle. The things that struck me the most about the island was the silence, sat on the beach all you could hear was the ocean, no one else, just yourself and nature as one. You can catch the boat from Orzola on the north of Lanzarote with daily crossings every 30 minutes.





Playa Blanca


Playa Blanca, one of the more well know resorts in the South of the island, has grown a lot over the last decade from the sleepy fishing village it once was. Quieter than some of its more garish neighbours (like Puerto del Carmen and Costa Teguise) Playa Blanca still has plenty going on and is a happy medium if you're looking to stay somewhere with a little more going on but still retaining some Spanish charm. With an abundance of independent shops, bars and restaurants, it makes for a fantastic night out. There are plenty of accommodation options to suit every budget from luxury hotels to self catering apartments. The nearby rubicon marina is another beautiful spot to explore while there.






Cesar Manrique foundation


This is a wonderful and must visit property to see into the world of Cesar Manrique, the person credited for much of the preservation of the island. After his return from the US, Cesar Manrique decided to relocate to Lanzarote where he built the foundation. At the time this was his home where he lived for 20 plus years before it later became the foundation. The house is a spectacular dwelling in the Tahiche area, situated in the midst of lava formations and built into the rock with stunning pale blue pools and falls. The building perfectly entwines with the landscape, where volcano and architecture blend in mutual respect.





The cactus garden


Jardín de Cactus is a beautiful garden situated in a former quarry of volcanic ash. It was the last intervention work of César Manrique before his death two years later and holds his distinct style and flair. The garden now holds over 1400 classified species and is a beautiful homage to the volcanic landscape.






Timafaya national park


The Volcano at Timanfaya last erupted over three hundred years ago and is Lanzarote's most popular tourist attraction to date. Every year, close to one million people visited this unique landscape. It's home to a sea of colourful dormant volcanoes that span shades or burnt umber, deep crimson and ashen blacks. At the top of the volcano sits the restaurant El Diablo which offers panoramic views across the island as well as food cooked from the heat of the volcanic earth. Well worth a stop to take in the views and grab a bite to eat!






Abandoned shipwreck


The abandoned shipwreck on the shore between Arrecife and Costa Teguise is a strange but pleasant surprise and actually a great spot to check out. The ship ran aground in Arrecife in the 1980's after it sprung a leak on route to Thessaloniki from Ivory Coast. Nowadays some locals and adventurers swim out to it to explore it and swim in the base of the ship.


Puero calero marina


Puerto Calero marina, positioned in a naturally protected enclave on Lanzarote’s south coast. It has become one of the more desirable locations to stay with one of the world’s top sailing ports and the characteristic village type atmosphere of the local town. High end restaurants quietly line the waterfront alongside independent boutiques and sailing shops. Calero is a beautiful harbour and well worth a visit.


El golfo


The tiny seaside fishing village of El Golfo is tucked away on the west of the island away from the hustle and bustle of the island. Famous for the Charco de Los Clicos aka the green lagoon you can also check out the charming local town and enjoy delicious fresh fish lunches enjoyed overlooking the beach.






Mirador del Rio


Mirador Del Rio is a must. If you do only a couple of things then this has to be one of them! The Rio viewpoint is one of the islands most unique creations by Cesar Manrique. It is a beautiful stone and glass building located high up near the top of the island and offers unparalleled views across to La Gracsiosa and the Chinijo Archipelago natural park. It costs 5 euros per person and is open year round. Why not then hop on a boat from La Orzola 10 minutes away and go visit La Gracsiosa yourself.



Haria


Haria much alike Teguise is a traditional, whitewashed old town town situated much further north of the island. It is far quieter with fewer than 1000 people populating it but retains a distinct charm as one of the islands most authentic villages. Come along and spend a few hours waking around the pretty village, spot for lunch and check out the weekly market.






Where to stay and accommodation


There are plenty of places to stay on the island to suit every need and budget. Here is a list of suggestions depending on what you're looking for.


Playa Blanca - Shops, nightlife, large hotels


La Orzola - Quiet coastal, wild swimming paradise


Teguise - Authentic spanish island life with boho bars and restaurants


Puerto La Calero - Tucked away luxury and boating


Rubicon Marina - Shops, restaurants, more relaxed bar scene







Accommodation prices vary but you can stay in a good B&B, hotel or apartment from as little as 15 to 20 euros a night, off season you can get some great deals. Here are a couple of my personal recommendations.



Places to avoid


As I spoke about earlier, Lanzarote previously retained a bad reputation for its British package holiday scene and I think that image comes largely from a couple of key areas which I would recommend avoiding when it comes to choosing where to stay. The worst of the lot would be Puerto Del Carmen, your typical British on sea resort that has been largely ruined by its overbuilt concrete buildings.


Arrecife is another area which has been overbuilt, breaking a lot of the building and protection regulations on the island.





Getting around


Although there are local buses that run around and through the island, the best and really only way to truly see the island is by car. Hiring a car is extremely easy and starts from as little is 13 euros a day. The roads in Lanzarote and some of the best I've ever driven on. Smooth simple and quiet. if you've never driven abroad before and are a little apprehensive then this is the best place to drive for the first time and you will fall in love with it I promise.






Average costs and when to visit


The anarys are extremely accessible from the UK and Europe with flight going daily starting from prices as low as £20 from London Gatwick. I recently rented a beautiful apartment from 300 Euros for the week. Food shopping is extremely reasonable and alcohol very cheap from as little as 2 euros for a bottle of wine. Car hire works out at a roughly 15 a day for a slighlty better car.



F I N A L W O R D


If you're looking for a warm climate and beautiful scenery then don't miss out on Lanzarote, its more beautiful and interesting than its given credit for.

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