I N T R O

Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, is often referred to as the "Island of Eternal Spring" thanks to its mild climate year-round. While it’s best known for its sun-drenched beaches and resort towns, there’s so much more to this island than meets the eye. A unique blend of natural beauty, volcanic landscapes, lush forests, and world-class stargazing opportunities, Tenerife offers both adventure and relaxation. Yet, it’s also an island with a split personality—tourist-heavy resort areas like Playa de las Américas often overshadow the island's natural treasures, and many potential visitors dismiss Tenerife as just another cheap holiday destination.

In reality, there’s a hidden side to Tenerife that offers so much more beyond the beaches and nightlife. When I visited, I made a conscious decision to avoid the touristy hotspots and instead immerse myself in the island’s quieter, more authentic side. From exploring the volcanic landscapes of Mount Teide to hiking through the ancient forests of the Anaga Mountains, I discovered that Tenerife is a place where rugged natural beauty far outweighs its reputation as a package holiday destination.

Tenerife’s Reputation: The Good, The Bad, and the Resorts

Tenerife has long been associated with mass tourism, particularly in areas like Playa de las Américas and Los Cristianos. These resort towns, filled with large hotels, all-inclusive deals, and rowdy nightlife, are popular with holidaymakers from across Europe, especially the UK and Germany. The island's affordability, warm weather, and cheap flights have made it a magnet for budget travellers seeking a week of sun, sea, and sand. Unfortunately, this has led to a certain reputation—Tenerife is often stereotyped as a "booze and beach" destination, with some travellers dismissing it as a place overrun by noisy tourists.

During my visit, I did notice that these resort areas are busy, loud, and not to everyone’s taste. The beachfront promenades are lined with bars, fast food joints, and souvenir shops, catering largely to the package holiday crowd. While Playa de las Américas certainly has its charm for those looking for a fun, all-inclusive break, it’s a stark contrast to the rest of the island's natural beauty and cultural depth.

However, Tenerife is much more than its resorts. The island's north, particularly around Puerto de la Cruz and the capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, offers a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere. Here, you’ll find a mix of locals and travellers seeking authentic Canarian culture, traditional food, and a slower pace of life.

Mount Teide: The Heart of Tenerife

At the centre of Tenerife lies Mount Teide, Spain’s highest peak and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Towering at 3,718 meters, Teide dominates the island’s skyline and offers an otherworldly experience. Hiking through the volcanic landscape of Teide National Park is like stepping onto another planet, with its eerie lava fields, craters, and jagged rock formations. The dramatic play of light and shadow on the volcano, particularly at sunrise or sunset, is a sight to behold.

On my visit, I opted to drive up the volcano and it was incredible. The views from bottom to top were absolutely breathtaking. Standing at the highest altitude, I could see the entire island spread out beneath me, with the neighbouring Canary Islands appearing like distant specks in the Atlantic. The top of La Palma is visible above the clouds! The sense of vastness and isolation was both humbling and exhilarating. Though I didn’t attempt the final trek to the summit (which requires a special permit), the panoramic views were enough to make me feel like I was on top of the world.

Stargazing in Tenerife: A Window to the Universe

Tenerife is also famous for being one of the best places in the world for stargazing. Due to its high altitude, clean air, and low light pollution, the island provides some of the clearest skies for observing the stars. Teide Observatory, located in the national park, is one of the most important observatories in the world.

As well as several solo night trips up the volcano I also signed up for a stargazing tour, and it was one of the highlights of my trip. As the sun set behind Mount Teide, the sky turned into a canvas of brilliant colours, before fading to deep, starry blackness. Under the guidance of professional astronomers, I learned about the constellations, observed Saturn’s rings through a telescope, and marvelled at the Milky Way stretching across the sky. The sheer clarity of the stars was staggering, and the silence of the surrounding landscape made the experience even more magical.

For those fascinated by space, Teide is also home to some astronomical viewpoints, like Mirador de Chipeque, where you can watch the clouds roll in beneath you during the day and gaze at the stars by night. There’s something profoundly peaceful about standing in the cold mountain air, wrapped in a blanket of stars, with nothing but the cosmos for company.

The Anaga Mountains: A Lush Green Wonderland

On the northeastern tip of the island, the Anaga Mountains offer a completely different side of Tenerife—one that’s lush, green, and filled with life. This is Tenerife’s oldest geological formation, and its laurel forests, ravines, and steep cliffs feel like something out of a fairytale. I spent a day hiking through the Anaga Rural Park, exploring the winding trails that take you through dense forests and along ridges that offer sweeping views over the Atlantic Ocean.

The remote villages in this part of the island, like Taganana and Chinamada, feel untouched by time. Here, you can enjoy a slower pace of life, sample local Canarian dishes in family-run restaurants, and take in the rugged beauty of the landscape. The Mirador Cruz del Carmen is one of the best spots to stop for a panoramic view over the mountains, with trails branching off into the forests.

Coastal Beauty and the Charms of Puerto de la Cruz

Tenerife’s natural beauty isn’t limited to its mountains—its coastline is equally spectacular. The black sand beaches of Playa Jardín in Puerto de la Cruz provide a stunning contrast to the blue Atlantic waters. Puerto de la Cruz, a charming seaside town, is a great base for exploring the island. The town is home to the famous Loro Parque, a world-class zoo and aquarium, but for me, it was the town’s laid-back vibe and oceanfront promenade that were the main attractions. Walking along the promenade at sunset, with the waves crashing against the rocks, I felt a deep sense of tranquillity.

For a taste of Tenerife’s wild side, I visited Los Gigantes, the dramatic cliffs that rise up to 800 meters above the ocean on the island’s western coast. A boat trip from the nearby harbour gave me the chance to see these towering cliffs up close, and I even had the opportunity to spot dolphins swimming in the clear waters. It was one of those moments that made me appreciate the sheer diversity of Tenerife’s landscapes—from volcanic peaks to verdant forests and stunning coastlines.

Where to Stay: From Luxury Resorts to Budget-Friendly Options

Tenerife caters to all kinds of travellers, with a wide range of accommodations from budget hostels to five-star resorts. If you’re looking for luxury, Costa Adeje is home to some of the island’s most high-end hotels, including the Gran Hotel Bahía del Duque and Iberostar Selection Anthelia. These resorts offer everything from spa services to infinity pools with ocean views, perfect for a relaxing stay.

For something more mid-range, Puerto de la Cruz has charming hotels and boutique stays with easy access to both the beach and the historic town centre. During my stay, I chose a small hotel here with traditional Canarian architecture, offering a cosy, authentic experience.

Backpackers and budget travellers will find plenty of affordable hostels and guesthouses throughout the island. The vibrant town of La Laguna is a good base for those exploring the Anaga Mountains and is known for its colonial architecture and lively student atmosphere.

Dining: Savoring the Flavors of Tenerife

Tenerife’s food scene is a delightful mix of traditional Canarian dishes and fresh seafood. A meal at one of the many guachinches—small, family-run restaurants serving homemade Canarian cuisine—is a must. These hidden gems, often found in rural areas, offer dishes like papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauce, fresh seafood, and slow-cooked stews.

In Puerto de la Cruz, I dined at a local guachinche where the simplicity of the food allowed the flavours to shine. The fresh vieja (parrotfish) I had was perfectly cooked, and the accompanying mojo verde (a green sauce made from cilantro and garlic) added a tangy kick.

For more upscale dining, the island has a growing number of gourmet restaurants, particularly in Costa Adeje, where you can find modern twists on Canarian cuisine using locally sourced ingredients. Tenerife’s local wines, especially those made from the island’s unique volcanic soils, pair wonderfully with the food.

Costs: An Affordable Paradise

One of the best things about Tenerife is that it’s an incredibly affordable destination compared to other European islands. While luxury resorts and high-end dining can push up the costs, budget travellers can easily enjoy Tenerife without breaking the bank. A meal at a local restaurant or guachinche can cost as little as €10-15, while budget accommodations start at around €20-30 per night.

Excursions like boat trips or the Teide cable car range between €30-40 - and many of the island’s best hiking trails are completely free to explore. Renting a car is a good idea if you want to explore the island in depth, and it’s reasonably priced, with daily rates starting at around €25-30.

Final Thoughts

Tenerife’s dual identity makes it a fascinating destination. On one hand, the island has its tourist-heavy resorts, often synonymous with budget holidays and beach parties. On the other, it’s a place of immense natural beauty, offering everything from volcanic hikes to serene stargazing experiences. For those willing to look beyond the obvious, Tenerife is a treasure trove of adventure, culture, and relaxation. The island’s ability to blend rugged nature with vibrant life makes it a destination worth exploring in-depth, far beyond the reputation it often receives.